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Something about this Elmhurst restaurant-lounge—maybe the imposing oversize wooden doors or the attention-grabbing neon sign—made us wonder if a muscle-bound bouncer might ask us for ID (it never happened). These signs did not suggest that serious cuisine was a-comin’, but we ate well nonetheless. Calamari tossed in creamy, spicy Peruvian amarillo (yellow pepper) sauce and grilled pork chops served with queso fresco and mashed boniato (a variety of sweet potato) were among the winning Span-Latin offerings. Come 11pm, ladies in skimpy outfits began streaming through the door—and we left the partying to the pros.