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The simple name reflects the stately interior but not the food. A couple of years ago, chef Juan Carlos Ortega revamped the menu in favor of complex dishes with a blend of flavors and textures. For example, smoked salmon and crabmeat top an avocado and watercress salad; and pistachio-crusted mahimahi joins baby bok choy, citrus-jasmine rice and curry foam. Desserts are equally elaborate: The popular caramelized-banana ice-cream tower is presented in a hazelnut shell.