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At this bland neighborhood tavern, Top Chef alum Nikki Cascone purports to celebrate her experiences growing up with a Jewish mom and an Italian dad. But the “global Jewish cuisine” is as ho-hum as the setting. While dinner begins on a promising note—with mini challah loaves delivered warm to the table—it quickly devolves. A wild-mushroom knish arrived encased in thick, gluey dough, still inedibly raw; meanwhile, the chicken breast came with sallow skin and a literal brick of dense challah-date stuffing. Even the matzo ball soup was a letdown. Dessert—including babka streaked with thick veins of bittersweet chocolate—delivers a smidgen of redemption, but there’s not enough soul or finesse to Cascone’s cooking to warrant a visit.
Details
Address
40 Ave B
New York
10009
Cross street:
between 3rd and 4th Sts
Transport:
Subway: F to Lower East Side–Second Ave
Price:
Average main course: $16. AmEx, Disc, MC, V
Opening hours:
Mon 5:30–11pm; Tue, Wed 11:30am–11pm; Thu–Sat 11:30am–midnight; Sun 11:30am–10pm
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