Oliva (CLOSED)

With a salsa Cubano band playing most nights of the week, this spirited sangria-and-tapas eatery often gets as loud as the corner of Houston and Allen outside. Oliva primarily peddles traditional tapas, from a fat wedge of tortilla de patatas (potato omelette) and warm, ham-flecked croquettes to plump olives. A few Basque-tinged bites are also on offer: The tastiest is the txangurro, crab bulging with tarragon and a dash of cognac. Just as intriguing is the sweet-meets-savory slender endive fitted with a walnut smeared in cabrales, Spain’s blue cheese, and a squiggle of caramel. The buzzy, tightly packed room is lined with wooden tables spray-painted with images of red bulls. !Ole!