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Olmsted

  • Restaurants
  • Prospect Heights
  • price 2 of 4
  • 4 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended
  1. Paul Wagtouicz
    Paul Wagtouicz

    Carrot crepe at Olmsted

  2. Paul Wagtouicz
    Paul Wagtouicz

    Chawanmushi at Olmsted

  3. Paul Wagtouicz
    Paul Wagtouicz

    Falafel at Olmsted

  4. Paul Wagtouicz
    Paul Wagtouicz

    Watermelon sushi at Olmsted

  5. Paul Wagtouicz
    Paul Wagtouicz

    Guinea hen at Olmsted

  6. Paul Wagtouicz
    Paul Wagtouicz

    Chef Greg Baxtrom at Olmsted

  7. Paul Wagtouicz
    Paul Wagtouicz

    Olmsted

  8. Paul Wagtouicz
    Paul Wagtouicz

    Olmsted

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Time Out says

4 out of 5 stars

This Prospect Heights blow-in from Greg Baxtrom (Per Se, Blue Hill at Stone Barns). On paper, Olmsted’s partiality for hyperfresh produce isn’t exactly a distinctive quality, but its sheer dedication to freshness sets it apart. An urban minifarm behind the modestly dressed restaurant provide Baxtrom’s kitchen with radishes and lovage; a bird coop coos with quails laying eggs; and a repurposed claw-foot bathtub sloshes with crayfish. Servers ask if you want to wait for a table on a cushioned bench in the backyard garden, with a cocktail and crayfish crackers, say, beneath strung lights—answer yes when they do.

Only snacks are available outside; the real good stuff is within the 50-seat den, such as a gorgeous bowl of charred-fennel chawanmushi. Baxtrom levels the dreamy, delicate egg custard with a crush of crispy artichokes and the umami punch of Burgundy truffle. Torn scallops—often discounted, usually discarded—are dry-rubbed, skewered and grilled until tender, the charcoal singe and pop of pasilla chile in the rub acting as a smoky foil to the summery pool of creamed corn and stewed blueberry that accompanies the mollusks, the pool itself a balancing act between savory and sweet. These are fine-dining ambitions wrapped in neighborhood-spot environs, where the most expensive entrée doesn’t exceed $25, impromptu happy birthday sing-alongs occur between strangers, and you can openly curse over just how fucking good a dish is. And it is.

Written by
Christina Izzo

Details

Address:
659 Vanderbilt Ave
Brooklyn
11238
Cross street:
at Park Pl
Price:
Average main course: $23
Opening hours:
Mon–Thu 5:30–10pm; Fri, Sat 11:30am-2:30pm, 5–10:30pm; Sun 11:30am-2:30pm, 5–9:30pm
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