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The walls are covered with clocks (orologi), but this comfortable trattoria won’t rush you. Highlights on the extensive menu include crisp quail over polenta; creamy mozzarella di bufala; and black-and-white pasta with a fresh, spicy tomato sauce. An expertly grilled herb-marinated rib-eye steak arrived with heaping piles of salad and fries; all benefitted greatly from a couple of dashes of salt. You’ll want to take your time over the righteous desserts.