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Homey fare dispatched from a closet-size kitchen makes dining at this lantern-lit eatery feel like an intimate dinner party. A rustic meat loaf is topped with a creamy garlic sauce and translucent rings of pickled red onion, and cracker-thin pizza is piled with Parmesan and arugula. A side of meaty, locally caught sardines and cage-free hot wings with a garlicky buttermilk-yogurt sauce make for fine snacks too. Though dessert (a boozy fig bread pudding) was a bit undercooked, we’re willing to hit up this cozy, well-meaning spot again.