Farther-flung parts of Queens may be chockablock with authentic Mexican eats, but this Astoria taqueria shakes up the formula, drawing on global influences and an artisanal pantry. The best dishes focus on a few interesting flavors. Plump steamed mussels rest in a heady corn broth studded with chorizo and jalapeño bits, while a moo shu duck taco is laced with hoisin-sriracha sauce. But things go awry when too many competing flavors are layered on top of one another, as in a roasted pork-belly enchilada topped with a chocolate, fig and peanut sauce and cumin crema. The best move here: Grab a simple nibble at the bar, order one of the fine sipping tequilas (Ocho, Partida) or mescals (Ilegal, Del Maguey) and enjoy the hobnobbing scene.