Padre Figlio (CLOSED)

The tacky interior and stodgy, expensive wine list suggest another rote entry in midtown’s selection of Italian eateries. But earnest food from Antonio and Mario Cerra (Da Antonio) exceeds expectations. Spaghetti alla bottarga is a wonder of shaved tuna roe, orange zest and firm noodles. The costoletta martino—thinly pounded veal with sharp Parmesan, artichokes and lemon—stands out among the dizzying lineup of meat options. Just when we thought we’d sidestepped the red-sauce formaggio, dessert arrived: tooth-shattering balls of tartufo.