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Reclaimed-wood tables and handblown glass fixtures outfit this 54-seat East Village trattoria, which pays homage to the Valtellina and Lake Como regions of Italy. Choose from regional dishes, like buckwheat-and-cornmeal polenta served alongside a dandelion salad, or lasagna made with braised leeks. The all-Italian wine list focuses on vino from the northern regions, while beers hail from the old country, plus Germany and Belgium.