Parigot

Located in the no-man’s-land where Soho meets Little Italy, this French bistro is a warm beacon on an otherwise desolate corner. The tiny space is made even more quaint with flickering candles and windows dressed with lace curtains. If there’s a wait, it’s worth lining up for chef-owner Michel Pombet’s excellent fare, including savory stewed lamb, and crab cakes gift-wrapped in phyllo pastry. Fluffy chocolate mousse cake is the natural choice for dessert—and it is uncommonly good.