Parma

Don’t expect a noteworthy atmosphere at Parma, but do plan on a memorable meal: heaping bowls of fresh mussels; first-rate salads with just-right amounts of lemon, oil and pepper to play off endive, crisp radicchio and velvety greens; and rich pastas like agnolotti stuffed with chicken, veal, spinach or Parmesan. The tiramisu resembles an ice-cream sundae and tastes sublime.