Patsy's Pizzeria

The historic East Harlem pie parlor opens its eighth location, the first outer-borough spot, in Queens. Robert Orrico, an Arthur Avenue restaurant vet, dispatches the legendary za shop’s thin-crust pies, along with other red-sauce classics: zuppa di pesce, chicken piccata in a lemon white-wine caper sauce, and shrimp oreganata topped with garlic bread crumbs. Sidle up to the 15-seat granite bar for six beers on tap (Stella Artois, Peroni), plus ten wines, including a house pinot grigio and chianti. The location may be different, but the house policy remains the same: no slices.