Patty & Bun American Tavern (CLOSED)

In the golden age of the New York burger, there’s simply no excuse for an inedible bun. But at this West Village tavern, the bread is brittle and crumbly. The grass-fed meat patties inside are tender and flavorful enough, but are often subsumed by their condiments. The signature Havoc is a sort of Slavic-Latin concoction featuring clashing toppings like chimichurri, house-made kraut and spicy cheese spread. Composed dishes depart from the typical burger-joint playbook, but those attempts—bland beet salad, mealy shrimp cocktail—don’t fare much better. Only the cold beer and flat-screen TV are reliable draws.