One can’t overstate the excitement a vegetarian feels when a new meat-free option opens in this foie gras--loving city—especially when it turns out to be as good as Peacefood Cafe. Just a couple of months ago, the affable Eric Yu opened this vegan gem, with soothing sage-colored walls, soft amber lighting and a buzzing, cheerily staffed counter at which to order. It’s a welcome addition to the only slightly veggie-compliant Upper West Side, offering a small but diverse selection of wholesome caf dishes, from soups and salads to sandwiches and pastries—and none contain a single animal product. (A small selection of dinner entres will join the menu by the end of October.) Disappointments—standard fare at most vegetarian spots—could not be found here. An earthy salad combined red quinoa, white beans, corn, red peppers, avocado and lime-mustard vinaigrette in an invigoratingly fresh starter. It provided a light counterpoint to the fried seitan medallion panino, a creation that teams a—sorry—meaty wheat-gluten cutlet with cashew-based “goat cheese,” peppery arugula and chopped tomatoes on a hunk of yeasty homemade focaccia. The tempeh avocado sandwich followed suit with yet another satisfying juxtaposition—the baked marinated tempeh, avocado, wisps of pickled radish, shredded carrots and cilantro on dense spelt-rye toast were zingy, cool and creamy all at once. Smoothies and fresh-juice blends—like the pineapple-beet-lime concoction—are thoughtfully crafted, as are the desserts. They’re just as good as their cream-and-butter cousins. The standout not-too-sweet coconut cream pie gets its silky texture from a dose of tofu, and minibrownies are impossibly rich and fudgy. This caf is a stellar antidote to the ’hood’s many meat-and-potato joints, whether you’re a meat eater or not.