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The dining room inside the lobby of the Waldorf-Astoria was renovated in late 2005 (at a cost of $5.5 million) and Cedric Tovar (Town, Django) now heads the kitchen. We like dinner and brunch here. The dishes, such as an appetizer of tuna tartare rolls with avocado and cilantro, can be quite delicate. Or they can be manly: The dry-aged, grilled sirloin was juicy and served on a mound of short-rib compote, with a buttery side of cauliflower and bone marrow. Brunch is a $75-a-person gourmet buffet.