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This rustic restaurant holds a dizzying array of Italian wines by the glass; the bartender even visits your table to make sure the food matches the drink. Small plates dominate the menu and a pleasant pungency lurks in much of the food here. Fried green olives are a must-order: the delicious hollow spheres are stuffed with spiced beef and pork, deep-fried and served in a paper cup. Smoked mozzarella is grilled and then laid atop violet radicchio laced with bacon. Pancetta surrounds monkfish that collapses in the mouth. Mouth-puckering pistachio ice cream makes for a nice finish.
234 E 4th St
|Cross street:||between Aves A and B|
|Transport:||Subway: F, V to Lower East Side–Second Ave|
|Price:||Average main course: $13. AmEx|
|Opening hours:||Mon–Thu 5pm–midnight; Fri 5pm–1am; Sat noon–1am; Sun noon–11pm|
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