Perbacco (CLOSED)

This rustic restaurant holds a dizzying array of Italian wines by the glass; the bartender even visits your table to make sure the food matches the drink. Small plates dominate the menu and a pleasant pungency lurks in much of the food here. Fried green olives are a must-order: the delicious hollow spheres are stuffed with spiced beef and pork, deep-fried and served in a paper cup. Smoked mozzarella is grilled and then laid atop violet radicchio laced with bacon. Pancetta surrounds monkfish that collapses in the mouth. Mouth-puckering pistachio ice cream makes for a nice finish.