Marie and Jacques Ponsolle, who grew up in a Pyrennean village, opened Pergola in 1962 and now
run it with their children, Christian and Laurent. The room is so small—and the food so good—that eavesdropping regulars like to offer advice: “Get the steak. It’s excellent!” Also recommended are the bouillabaisse and the thin-crust Alsatian tart, which is topped with onions, bacon and parsley. The supple, roasted duck breast is served with nutty wild rice and
a cherry-and-port sauce. As Marie works the room, chatting about her favorite Broadway stars, she makes sure you’re not so transfixed by the mousse (with chunks of solid chocolate hidden in its rich folds) that you miss your curtain.