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While starstruck diners try to catch a glimpse of Perilla toque and Top Chef winner Harold Dieterle, food-minded folk can enjoy a small menu of upscale American standards (duck meatballs, sautéed skate wing) in the comfortable dining room, with handsome wooden tables and fans spinning on a pressed-tin ceiling. Doughnuts with lemon-fennel curd made a fine ending to a polished debut.