Jean-Georges Vongerichten has brought his trademark virtuosity to one of the Richard Meier’s gleaming glass towers on the edge of the Village. The sleek, minimalist space fronting Hudson River Park is cast in luminous whites and neutral tones that focus attention where it belongs: on the food. The menu features playful and innovative variations on seasonal favorites (like the savory strawberry gazpacho amuse-bouche or the peekytoe crab salad beautifully presented with edible flowers), though the flavors can border on the subdued, as with the bland red snapper in chili oil. Excellent desserts (try the warm mango upside down cake) and a decent wine selection round out the experience, though service can be somewhat stiff.
