Good soldier Pietrasanta is a member of the city’s hardworking army of unspectacular but reliable restaurants. Hearty appetizers include Caesar salad tossed in a thick layer of dressing, and gently charred grilled calamari with lemon, white wine and basil. Long strands of black squid-ink trenette come piled high with fresh, garlicky clams; sweet pumpkin ravioli are bathed in red-pepper cream sauce. Chicken and veal entrées don’t stray far from the tried-and-true. Aging upholstery, low lighting and close-set tables convey the tired efficiency of a restaurant in an aging pensione, although service is fast and pleasant.
683 Ninth Ave
|Cross street:||at 47th St|
|Opening hours:||Mon, Sun noon–10:30pm; Tue, Thu noon–11pm; Wed 11am–11pm; Fri noon–midnight; Sat 11:30am–midnight|
|Transport:||Subway: C, E to 50th St|
|Price:||Average main course: $15. AmEx, MC, V|
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