Pietrasanta

Good soldier Pietrasanta is a member of the city’s hardworking army of unspectacular but reliable restaurants. Hearty appetizers include Caesar salad tossed in a thick layer of dressing, and gently charred grilled calamari with lemon, white wine and basil. Long strands of black squid-ink trenette come piled high with fresh, garlicky clams; sweet pumpkin ravioli are bathed in red-pepper cream sauce. Chicken and veal entrées don’t stray far from the tried-and-true. Aging upholstery, low lighting and close-set tables convey the tired efficiency of a restaurant in an aging pensione, although service is fast and pleasant.