Pigalle (CLOSED)

The food is very, you know…steak frites, brandade de morue (salt-cod-and-potato puree) and the like. The portion sizes and the breadth of beer offerings, however, are distinctly Yankee-Doodle in their generosity. Satisfying slabs of foie gras terrine are served with toast; steak au poivre weighs in at a hefty ten ounces—and that’s not counting the brittle double-fried frites. As you listen to Larry Adler’s harmonica rendition of “I Love Paris” segue into Charles Trenet’s “La Mer,” you may wonder what’s playing at Le Grand Rex tonight.