Pinch Chinese

Charlie Chen, a chef poached from Michelin-star chain and soup-dumpling heavyweight Din Tai Fung, is at the helm of the city’s newest addition to the xiao long bao craze. There are other familiar Chinese dishes on the menu—we wouldn’t scoff at you for digging into a plate of dandan noodles ($16)—but with this sort of chef-and-chain pedigree, the dumplings take the limelight. Rotating specials highlight seasonal flavors and keep you coming back, but menu essentials like the pork-soup, mushroom (both $10) and indulgent, cooked-in-pork-fat seafood ($12) servings of dumplings nail it every time.