While this Georgian spot is brightened by replica murals of its folk- artist namesake, the dining room really lights up when the food arrives. Khachapuri—a discus of grilled dough—has a crisp, heavily buttered exterior and a molten cheese center, while chakapuli—veal stewed in a tangy-savory broth of sour plums, tarragon and cilantro—melts in the mouth. Eat the piping-hot khinkhali (fist-sized Caucasian dumplings with a soupy filling of chopped veal and herbs) with black pepper, pointy side down, using both hands. During the week, you may BYOB, but on weekends, only house beverages – Georgian dry and sweet wines – are available to enhance the sporadic rotation of Georgian and Russian folk and pop acts.
