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The mobile pizza standby—a favorite at food flea Smorgasburg and Crown Heights beer hall Berg'n—gets its first permanent flagship in Red Hook, slinging Neapolitan-style pies from a turn-of-the-century oven found ensconced behind a wall in the formerly abandoned storefront. Restoring the hearth's original cast-iron details, but trading coal for wood, chef-owners Dave Sclarow and Anna Viertel pull rounds topped with everything from bacon fat to clams to pistachio pesto (with winter greens, fresh mozzarella, ricotta and pecorino). There are also composed small plates that showcase Sclarow's finesse from working in kitchens like Esca, including a pancetta-crowned cassoulet with shell beans, steamed mussels with sesame fry bread and crispy chicken agro-dolce with chilis, peanuts and cilantro. The team looked to the history of the 'hood for decor inspiration—bar stools are welded from Red Hook public schools' discarded desks and tables are constructed from bowling-alley wood. At the bar, made out of salvaged soap stone, cocktails pay homage to the cigar maker who once inhabited the space: the gin-fortified Harry’s Bouquet (Aperol, house lemon bitters, anise rinse) is named after a popular cigar blend. Also offered is a selection of biodynamic and natural wines, such as a deep-red, fruit-dense Chinon Cabernet Franc from Domaine Beatrice et Pascal Lambert.
338 Hamilton Ave
|Cross street:||between Centre and Mill Sts|
|Transport:||Subway: F, G to Smith–9th Sts|
|Price:||Average pizza: $14. AmEx, Disc, MC, V|
|Opening hours:||Tue-Sun 5:30-11pm|
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