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Almost as impressive as its boast of being the sole Chilean restaurant in New York, Pomaire can also lay claim to being the most intriguing spot on Restaurant Row. In a colorful, brick-walled dining room lined with indigenous art, expats and stray theatergoers savor ceviche appetizers (the mariscal is a well-rounded sampler) whose acidity pairs well with pisco cocktails. Fish entrées, like the grilled salmon in a lobster reduction are well-prepared, but the real revelation are the casseroles made in a claypot. The chupe de mariscos is a sumptuous stew of scallops, shrimp and mussels blended together in melted cheese, while the pastel de choclo is a layered beef pie, laced with onions and raisins and crowned with sweetcorn. Unlike most Theater District spots, Pomaire deserves an encore.
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