Portofino

Though curiously ignorant of where the town of Portofino is, the waiters here preside adroitly over the airy dining room and the relaxed outdoor patio overlooking the marina. The appetizers are terrific—the fresh carpaccio di manzo enhanced by truffle oil and the spiedini Romana (fried mozzarella sticks) exceptionally chewy. The standout entrée is the ravioli di Aragosta, dressed in a light grappa sauce and stuffed with fresh lobster meat. Shaming the packaged lobster ravioli so prevalent in the city, it’s eminently worthy of the Ligurian seaside town for which the restaurant is named.