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Restaurants, Russian Nolita

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The staircase opens into a cavernous subterranean brasserie that recalls a Cold War–era movie set (see the cement ceiling and stainless-steel toilet seats)—Keith McNally style. Chic couples and the Soho working class sit in curved red banquettes and leather armchairs, sipping colorful martinis and sampling Soviet snacks like spinach-and-cheese piroshki and smoked sturgeon scattered with dill and a dollop of crème fraîche. Caviar is, of course, found in various guises, including a Wolfgang Puck–like application atop smoked-salmon pizza. The “White Russian profiteroles,” made with Kahlúa ice cream, are hard to say nyet to.



Address: 281 Lafayette St
New York
Cross street: between E Houston and Prince Sts
Transport: Subway: B, D, F, V to Broadway–Lafayette St; N, R, W to Prince St; 6 to Spring St
Price: Average main course: $20. AmEx, MC, V
Opening hours: Mon–Wed 5pm–1am; Thu 5pm–2am; Fri, Sat 5pm–3am; Sun 6pm–1am
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