Prem-on Thai (CLOSED)

Considering the onslaught of Thai restaurants, we’re happy that a few of them have nixed the bamboo decor and strayed from culinary norms. Here, in one of several stylish rooms, you’ll watch in awe as dramatically plated Thai dishes and cocktails are carried through the dining room. Prem-on doesn’t hold back, either visually or with the seasoning. A whole fried sea bass fillet is served upright and loaded with basil and roasted-chili-paste sauce. Red snapper is smothered with an extra-sweet pineapple and lychee sauce. And pork hand rolls are an impressive trio of towers with a punchy sesame-chili–rice-vinegar sauce. Unfortunately some dishes, including a seafood skewer and Thai orange duck, were overcooked.