Preserve is right—nearly every inch of this rustic American eatery is a nod to old New York. Housed in a trio of century-old Lower East Side tenements, the 145-seat bi-level restaurant is trimmed in antique trappings: Deconstructed pianos serve as the back bar, and the grand staircase is made of cast iron and glass from Soho sidewalks and a Victorian pedestrian bridge. A 19th-century oyster boat has been thrown on its side and converted into a raw bar, shucking East Point bivalves, crab claws and crudo. Along with the raw bites, chef John Parlatore (Fig & Olive) offers fennel-crusted upstate veal chop, whole-roasted porgy and a 28-day aged rib eye from the kitchen’s giant wood-burning oven. Beverage options include draft beers (Empire IPA, Kelso Pilsner), whiskey slugs (Four Roses Single Barrel, Lagavulin 16-year) and cocktails: The Dead Reckoning is made with mescal, Velvet Falernum, lime, banana, parsley and honey.