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At this ode to Naples, pizza pro Pasquale Cozzolino (Ribalta) pulls pies based off ancient recipes and fires them inside a mosaic-tiled wood-burning oven. Partnering with Donatella Arpaia (Heartwood, Donatella) and Maurizio de Rosa (Sushi Nakazawa), Cozzolino created a chronology of pizzas for the menu: The 1660s-style Mastunicola is lacquered with pork lard and sprinkled with pecorino; a marinara pie calls back to the early 1800s when tomatoes became prevalent; and a purist Margherita harks to 1889, named for the queen who loved it. More modern options include inventive rounds like the Ghiaccio, baked with ice chips on top to keep the dough moist and its delicate sea urchin and sheep’s-milk toppings from drying out. Pies are joined by imported Gentile pasta for dishes like tomato-basil spaghetti and lasagna with house-made tomato ragù. The vino (greco, aglianico) spreads across the Italian boot, as does the bottled beer (Baladin Tuscan-style ale, Menabrea amber ale) and the decor (marble-top tables, Thonet chairs).
184 Eighth Ave
|Cross street:||between 19th and 20th Sts|
|Transport:||Subway: 1 to 18th St|
|Price:||Average pizza: $18. AmEx, MC, V.|
|Opening hours:||Daily noon–midnight|
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