Queen

Forty-five-year-old Queen is forced to share her block with a McDonald’s and a multiplex, but that hasn’t diminished her regal aplomb. Smooth, barely salty mozzarella is made in-house daily and served with a changing side (pray for the garlicky roasted asparagus). A meaty mound of thyme-seasoned osso buco is fork-tender, and the filet mignon gets an herbal boost from its rosemary-infused sauce. To cap your meal, dunk crunchy Tuscan almond cookies into vin santo, an Italian dessert wine, or indulge in a dish of seasonal house-made gelato.