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Pretty rose-colored walls and an unobtrusive soundtrack of French pop songs inspire quiet contentment—rather than amour fou—at this inexplicably uncrowded bistro. Quercy is dependable, if not novel: Nutty trout amandine, a rack of lamb rubbed with rosemary and parsley, and escargots lavished with shiitake mushrooms, butter and cognac all satisfy. Owner Jean-François Fraysse (La Lunchonette) complements his simple menu with a short but reasonably priced wine list that represents the region in southwest France for which the restaurant is named.