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Resto Léon’s enjoyable meals are heightened by a staff that takes pleasure in preparing and serving your feast. Start with a poached egg dropped in the center of a rich, fragrant broth of red wine, shallots and mushrooms. Move on to standards like tender hanger steak au poivre and an overflowing bowl of mussels in creamy white-wine broth. Stick around for some late-night hijinks: The impulsive, fun-loving French staff can turn the whole place into a party at the drop of a châpeau.