Worldwide icon-chevron-right North America icon-chevron-right United States icon-chevron-right New York State icon-chevron-right New York icon-chevron-right Review: Church Street Tavern

Heads up! We’re working hard to be accurate – but these are unusual times, so please always check before heading out.

Church Street Tavern

Review: Church Street Tavern

Read the recent restaurant review from one of the finalists in our Food and Drink critic competition

Advertising

Fresh from a summerlong revamp, Church Street Tavern reopened to a sleek new interior and a globally-inspired gastropub menu from chef Max Renny. Starters include a gem lettuce salad ($12), fashionably dressed in a vinaigrette shot through with nutty bursts of toasted quinoa, Peruvian pop rocks for the sophisticated palate. Uni arancini ($18) encase buttery urchin risotto in a crisp fried shell. The execution is simple, the result moreish.

The crudo menu from Sushi Ko chef John Daley entices with bolder offerings, but a dish of Japanese walnut smoked kampachi ($18) fails to deliver, a gritty cucumber jalapeño cucu overwhelming the delicately incensed fish.

Though the menu aims to lure downtown diners with culinary foams and foreign finery, it's in old-fashioned service and uncomplicated cuisine where the tavern finds its natural footing. Brick chicken ($25) is succulent, the crackly crisp skin rife with the tangy funk of preserved lemon. The unassuming tavern burger ($19) topped with Vermont cheddar, bacon-onion relish and arugula boasts of nothing exotic but is the sleeper hit of the menu. Salty, sweet and savory, it's a simple, excellent combination that reminds you sometimes the most inspired food is the stuff that's closest to home.

Omar Tungekar
Photograph: Omar Tungekar

By Omar Tungekar

A nonprofit professional by day and a self-described "Pakipino" chef by night, Omar Tungekar is a veteran of the local competitive cooking scene, with several awards to his name, and a deep lover of food and culture, inspired by the flavorful kitchen creations of his Pakistani father and Filipina mother.

Recommended More from Christmas

    More from Christmas

      You may also like

        Advertising