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Surely there’s a catchier name for this dazzling steakhouse in the Penthouse Executive Club. Booty and the Beef? The Loin King? Regardless, they serve serious food in a silly setting—the mezzanine of Bob Guccione’s 10,000-square-foot salute to pulchritude. Lang’s dishes are every bit as seductive as the tawny ladies pole-dancing below. Sicilian sausage joins rigatoni in a spicy starter, topped with a dollop of fresh ricotta. Steaks are marvelous, whether a thick-as-your-fist, 28-ounce dry-aged New York strip, or kobe beef, served with buckwheat soba and shiitake mushrooms. Dessert might bring molten chocolate cake with rich pistachio ice cream. Or you could wait for one of the G-string divas offering lap dances to come to your dinner table. Whichever you choose, your waiter won’t judge you; he’ll merely smile and ask, ever so politely, “Shall I remove this dish, or are you still working on it?”
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