Romanian Garden

It’s very easy to embrace any cuisine that wraps pork sausage in smoky pork, and here the dish comes in a red-wine-spiked sauce next to mashed potatoes. Fake flowers wound around latticework successfully re-create the feeling of a real garden—but only after you’ve been drugged with a seductive version of polenta (mamaliga cu brinza si smintina), to which Italians only wish they could lay claim: Shreds of salty feta cover the cornmeal mush; five scoops of sour cream provide a cool counterpoint.