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New Yorkers love their sandwiches: banh mi, tortas, subs, burgers…. But the outcast is the wrap, mainly because the bready blanket is usually a soggy afterthought to the stuff inside. Not at Roomali, a spartan Curry Hill canteen, where the stretchy, chewy, griddle-fried roti is as considered as the delightful fillings (chana pakora—fried chickpea batter, paneer tikka—scorched blocks of fresh cheese, and seekh kabob—cylinders of yummy tandoor-roasted minced lamb). There’s little reason to linger in the gloomy dining nook, but the winning roti is a perfect quick meal that will have you rethinking the whole attack on wraps.
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