Rosanjin (CLOSED)

An intimate, swank dining room awaits those who come to indulge in the ultimate form of Kyoto-style kaiseki: a two-and-a-half-hour, eight-course dining experience. Unfortunately, an illuminated chiseled-rock wall and luxe seating arrangements (there are but seven tables) do nothing to mitigate the $150 per person price tag; that is the responsibility of the elaborate meal itself, and it comes up short. The tiny courses are hit-and-miss: A dollop of sea urchin in the opener can be both too cold and oddly flavorless, but an artful tower of sashimi several plates later is flawless. A dessert of vanilla ice cream and fruit is too plain for inclusion in what ought to be a medley of delightful surprises.