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Owner John Tucker and chef Ethan Koftvar were using organic, sustainably raised ingredients, preferably from local producers, long before it became fashionable. That’s why they’ve earned a loyal following of locals who settle in the muted, earth-toned room to peruse a menu that changes frequently but is reliably stacked with bold flavors. Appetizers might be asparagus soup with pickled asparagus, pearl onions and parmesan, or artichoke hearts with broiled crab mousseline, rhubarb chutney and basil puree. Main courses may include grilled striped bass with fiddleheads, bacon, shiitake mushrooms and almond milk or tender braised beef short ribs with braised red cabbage, mustard spaetzle and horseradish-dill cream.