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According to one linguist, sabrosura “means more than its English translation of ‘flavor’; there is a hint of picante in the term.” There’s also a hint of it in the food of Nelson Ng, who learned to cook in Santo Domingo’s Chinatown and opened this eclectic restaurant in the Bronx in 1982. Locals have been packing in under the candy-colored hanging lights ever since. You can get mofongo (a mash of fried plantains, garlic, and either shellfish or chicken), mojito-spiced charbroiled chicken, and excellent bone-in sweet-and-sour pork chops. Ng doesn’t limit himself to Chino-Latino; he also serves American-style seafood dishes, simply because he likes them.