Sabry’s

This simple tile-walled space opens onto a pan-Arab street with a mosque across the street—and alcohol is prohibited—but there’s an appealing old-world charm to the place. After receiving a gracious Egyptian greeting, you’ll be served hot pitas, tahini dip and salad. Next, you choose your own fresh fish from a bed of ice, which chef Sabry prepares, in time-honored style, simply seasoned and baked in a tenderness-preserving salt crust. If you’re in the mood for something more hearty, try his taojine, a satisfying seafood stew in an intense tomato base.