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This simple tile-walled space opens onto a pan-Arab street with a mosque across the street—and alcohol is prohibited—but there’s an appealing old-world charm to the place. After receiving a gracious Egyptian greeting, you’ll be served hot pitas, tahini dip and salad. Next, you choose your own fresh fish from a bed of ice, which chef Sabry prepares, in time-honored style, simply seasoned and baked in a tenderness-preserving salt crust. If you’re in the mood for something more hearty, try his taojine, a satisfying seafood stew in an intense tomato base.
25-24 Steinway St
|Cross street:||between Astoria Blvd and 25th Ave|
|Transport:||Subway: N, W to Astoria Blvd; G, R, V to Steinway St|
|Price:||Average main course: $15. Cash only|
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