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Ebullient chef and owner Sandro Fioriti (Il Buco) is omnipresent in his bustling Roman eatery, whether he’s carving prosciutto on a vintage slicer or racing from the kitchen to the dining room. His menu includes a fine bucatini all’Amatriciana—pleasantly chewy pasta and chubby bits of pancetta in spicy tomato sauce—and a special of prosciutto-stuffed chicken draped in fontina, dotted with tiny mazza di tamburo mushrooms. Caveat emptor: The tiramisu was like something out of a bodega icebox; we ordered the creamy polenta, sweetened with raspberry sauce, instead.
306 E 81st St
|Cross street:||between First and Second Aves|
|Transport:||Subway: 6 to 77th St|
|Price:||Average main course: $21. AmEx, MC, V|
|Opening hours:||Mon–Sat 5pm–11pm, Sun 4:30–10pm|
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