Sanur

For down and dirty Indonesian and Malaysian food, check out this Chinatown hole in the wall. Actually, it’s a hole in the ground, with a small café at street level and the main dining room down a narrow flight of stairs. It’s worth a trip to the café just to sample the wobbly, colorful sweet cakes made with tapioca and coconut milk. Downstairs, avoid the rujak, a salad of unripe mango in sweet and sour sauce, which lacks depth and detail, and try the roti canai, a fried pancake served with a cup of spicy coconut curry, a classic Malaysian sauce. The curry bean thread crab, a clay pot swimming with whole crabs, is also tasty.