Saravanaas

If you’ve been depriving yourself of carbs and need a place to load up, this southern Indian palace of gluten is your place. Every item on the menu is a form of starch—including rice, dosas, and an array of Indian breads, the best of which is a flaky, buttery paratha. Crisp lentil-doughnut appetizers are the right start—the medhu vada version comes with a sweet coconut chutney. Dosas, though, are the main draw. The two-foot-long thin and crisp crêpes can be made of rice and lentils, cream of wheat or Bengal gram flour and filled with all sorts of ingredients, including a wonderful not-too-spicy vegetable masala. The space has its quirks: The lighting is as bright as Duane Reade’s and the walls are hung with magenta fabric dotted with plastic flowers.