Scalino

This Italian spot is notable for austere decor (only a few picture frames dot the walls) and snotty service (our waiter mocked us when we didn’t finish a flavorless appetizer of white beans and sausage). Only entrées proved redemptive: Tender lamb shank came with savory lentils, and excellent pastas hailing from Gotham noodle mecca Raffetto’s included a pappardelle in a tasty tomato cream with cubes of smoked bacon. Pass over desserts, like rock-hard balls of ice cream in thick chocolate shells.