Sel et Gras (CLOSED)

Chef Patrick Lacey, who honed his kitchen skills at Del Posto and Eataly, turns from Italy to France with this bright small-plates bistro. Tuck into Euro-accented dishes—many served in mini cast-iron skillets—such as crispy pieds de cochon (stuffed pig feet served with watercress and pickled mustard seeds) or moules au vadouvan (mussels with roasted tomato, fennel and curry), along with sides like pommes aligot (melted cheese and mashed potatoes). More than 50 French bottles make up the wine list, sorted by prices ranging from “bourgeoisie” to “royalty.” Graffiti adds shocks of electric color to the diminutive brick-walled spot, which is otherwise outfitted with genteel trappings: marble tables, a patterned tile floor and painted portraits of aristocrats.