Owned by the onetime Miami Dolphins coach, Shula’s has its share of big-league sports kitsch: The menu is written on a football, and trophies and other memorabilia fill the low-lit rooms. Kick off with the cold lobster cocktail—a small tail, a large claw and the midsection, served with mustard sauce. The porterhouse, even the 24-ounce peewee-league version, is so flavorful that even salt and pepper seem superfluous. Exemplary hash browns are seasoned with a hint of nutmeg. The warm chocolate soufflé is a winning touchdown.
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