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An authentic pickled–herring sampler is a highlight at the pan-Scandinavian Smörgås Chef, which operates three NYC branches (try the cozier Financial District version, if you can). The entrée sampler includes four varieties—with onions, in tomato sauce, in mustard sauce and plain—along with a small mound of ho-hum potato salad. If the $16 price tag has you saying “Uff da!,” go for the $9 appetizer rendition.