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New York’s prized noodle joints have taught us to be picky about what we slurp, and one more has arrived to do the same. At Soba Koh, chef-owner Hiromitsu Takahashi makes soba noodles fresh daily from organic buckwheat. They are served hot, in a rich broth, or cold, either with a dipping sauce or in fusiony creations like soba “risotto” with crab, shiitake and ginkgo nuts. But it’s not all soba here: You’ll also find steamed-egg custard with sea urchin and shiso-marinated grilled quail. The stark, bright dining room is open only for dinner, but you can watch the noodle-making process between noon and 3pm every day but Monday.